I fully realise that a lot of very sensible people out there get glazed eyes when they read phrases like ‘windscreen wipers in the sky’ and any attention is immediately lost…..maybe i should find a different phrase.

What goes around comes around…blah blah blah

Unfortunately these are the very sensible sound minds that need to see things for what they are.

If you cannot smell the roses people…try smelling the coffee…or the smelling salts….

PS. this blog seems to have started a bit of a fracas, which, after much consideration can only be a good thing, particularly if it helps highlight a problem that is clearly one amongst many.

It was cut and pasted onto a Sanparks forum by someone else, from there i received many, mails, messages and comments…including a request from the media for my pictures of what i saw there. Once again, after much consideration and discussion with an acqauintance of high standing within SA society, i acceded.

So with all that going on i changed my mind about putting the pictures here together with my ‘blog’ in an effort to ensure that my story is seen for what it is, an honest account of something i saw, experienced, photographed and wrote about.

I have absolutely no axe to grind at all, but based on the reactions of the people who read the story and commented it became quite clear that this was the right thing to do.

With that in mind when the media in question asked me if i wanted anonymity, i said no, if my story helps get someone in power to start seriously addressing what everyone considers to be serious problems in the KNP, then let me stand up proudly and unashamedly in an effort to help that happen.

I have, since my blog was pasted onto the SAN Parks forum, been accused by a Virtual Ranger, of concocting the whole story in an effort to draw attention to myself and this site and, by the same Virtual Ranger of actually trying to corrupt the staff at KNP by offering to buy bush meat from them to support my story!

In fairness to the people who run the forum, after I had replied in a fairly feisty fashion the Rangers post was removed, as was my response, and indeed I received a personal message from the forum ‘administrator’ explaining that my reply had been removed as it was in reply to a particularly nasty post and that the Ranger in question would be getting some severe words from them as he had broken several of their rules.

If my little blog site gets more traffic and mileage because of this affair…then let me also state upfront that i will be delighted about that too, providing visitors have enjoyed or been able to take something from whatever it is they may have seen or read here.

I have to admit that it was nice to get into a proper bed…not only was out like a light but I slept till almost 5.30!!..I had woken at 4 as usual but just turned over and enjoyed the luxury. A slow coffee as ever then out by 6.15 I aimlessly went east down the tar road without any real plan…I think I was probably still half asleep for a while to be honest.

By the time I reached the Malelane road I had decided against doing much mileage and headed north towards traders post, still not absolutely sure of my route. I was tempted to spend the day up on the biyamati, maybe park up near the weir somewhere, maybe pull into traders for some breakfast…it all seemed far though and requiring lots of effort…and I was the weekend after all.

By the time I reached the top of the hill at the foot of Tilhalabye I had made my mind up and planned to just take the dirt track west that runs along the northern side of the Matjulu which I total gave me a travel loop of just 25 klicks and kept me close to camp at all times, it was time to chill a bit.

As I approached the top of the hill I could see a whole bunch of cars and game viewers…maybe 7 or 8 vehicles in total parked all over the place…it had to be something and I pulled in to ask.

Leopard stalking impala…fantastic. I just had to block out the fact that I was one of many as best I could because this was something really worth watching and enjoyed the scene for the next couple of hours, managing to get a few ok pictures of the leopard stalking through the grass just 10 metres or so away from where I was sat. I did not have the best position, one of the game viewers did so once I got my pics I pulled out of the melee a bit and backed up a few metres to a break in the bushes to my left where the cat was…hoping that he may come that way….highly likely in my opinion based on the wind, but obviously dependant on the impala and what they did. They had obviously got an idea the cat was nearby as there had been a few warning snorts at the back of some dense bush between us throughout my time spent there. I could tell where the cat was because of the cameras in front of me and occasional glimpses of the impala through the bushes to my left. The cat had clearly lain up for a while.

Maybe an hour later the cat did move again and sure enough he came my way and I suddenly found myself in pole position as far as viewing vehicles were concerned….amazing how used to vehicles these cats have become…I got a good view of the leopards face as he crept through the bush…totally focused on the bushes to the rear. I reversed slowly for a short way as the cat moved and saw him settle again the thicket below a dead wood tree where he disappeared from sight altogether.

The cars all stared to disappear too and within 10 minutes or so I was alone at the scene. That obviously suited me fine and even though I could not see the cat I knew its position and I could see the herd, I just sat for another hour or so…seeing nothing but thoroughly enjoying the surroundings and sounds of the bush.

It started getting hot soon after 9am and I moved off well pleased with the sighting with no effort required whatsoever. Turning left and west onto the dirt track I cruised slowly along, not really worried about seeing any animals but just enjoying the scenery, the granite koppies, the ups and downs, the foliage, the birds and occasional kudu, zebra and buck along the way…a small tortoise hobbling along the track towards me. At the end of the track I headed north for a kilometre where I parked up by the Matjulu waterhole for a while.

I was going to spend some time there writing but the breeze was blowing the dust up into the cab a bit and I decided I would rather do that in the comfort of my chalet later.

There was quite a bit going on there in fact to keep me occupied. Two rhinos were slumped up on the edge of the water hole, mother and daughter…half in and half out of the water. After a while the young daughter started moving around talking to mum…it was quite clear that she was bored and wanted to move on or do something!!…mum was having none of it, and the squeaking calls of the youngster became funnier and funnier. After a while she tried to play with a marabou stork that was resident for the morning but the stork was not too interested…however a bit of bill clapping and it was the rhino that went running off back to mum!!hilarious.

The bird had a particularly bright red ‘sac’ on the back of its neck…I am not sure but I think it is something to do with mating time…I must try to check somewhere…my books don’t mention it.

A small group of about 7/8 male impalas were hovering around nearby and I was wondering why they seemed so nervy but eventually decided it was just the main ram asserting himself within the group. A couple of warthogs came down for a quick drink and all the while a snake eagle sat above in a dead wood tree surveying everything intently looking for breakfast.

I left just after 11 am and crawled slowly along the 4 klicks of track back to camp. A little bit over a kilometre from camp I came across a hare along the side of the track who had found some greenery where he was having a good nibble. Amazingly he did not seem too fazed by me at all and I was able to park up virtually next to him where I sat for 15 minutes or so with him getting some lovely pics. I could not help wondering what he was doing out at this time of day and why he seemed so relaxed. Is that what I could see?…then as I watched him I started wondering it was something completely different…maybe he had lost his mate earlier to some predator and was in some kind of shock.. I moved off saying to him out loud that he really should be finding some cover for the day. This absolutely the truth.

Less than fifty metres further on as the track was about to take a sharp bend I looked in my wing mirror …just in time to see a dark shape come swooping down from the sky and smash the poor hare into the ground…I could hardly believe my eyes. I was only going at 10kph so it was easy to stop…quickly doing a three point turn and heading back to the spot. About twenty metres away I pilled up and was able to get a couple of great shots of what I think is a Wahlbergs Eagle pinning the hare into the ground with its talons firmly dug into the side of the little I had just moments before been watching and photographing from a few feet away.

Silly me…after taking a few shots I put the camera down and crept a bit closer…too close and the bird gripped the hare in its claws and took off, unfortunately for the bird the hare was either too heavy or it had not gripped it so well and six inches off the ground the hare fell back to ground…the eagle obviously panicked a little and perched in a short bush tree just a couple of metres away where I got some stunning pictures of it.

I felt bad though about disturbing him like one of the idiots I get so upset with sometimes!!…I reversed up for about twenty metres and sat for an hour, then another ten metres for another hour.

The bird had moved around a little bit from tree to tree all about fifty metres or more away. On a couple of occasions two other smaller buzzards of some sort came flying by and the eagle immediately took off from wherever he was perched and chased them off with lots of dive bombing from the smaller birds and lots of angry shouts and yelps from the eagle…wonderful stuff to watch as they all soared above in a breathtakingly blue sky.

At times the eagle soared off further seemingly covering a distance of at least a kilometre in a few seconds. It was testimony to his eyesight as I always felt that he had a sharp eye on the hare and a sharper eye on me!

By 2pm I realised that he was not going to come back while I was still around and I decided to leave him to it. I pulled up at the now stiff hare and flicked him with my cane into some longer grass just off the track and under a sparse bush that was just there.

Back to camp for a couple of hours with all god intentions of fixing myself a nice salad….suddenly the cafeteria seemed sooo convenient though!! (besides that, it must be said that the Berg n Dal Cafeteria is by far the best in the south of the park, and together with Punda, the best)

So, I pigged out and sat writing for a while in comfort before heading out again for my last evening drive. I took exactly the same route as I had in the morning which was nice, sitting at the ‘leopard’ spot for a while with a cold beer…where I found other like minded people arriving with the same idea!!

I stopped at the spot where the eagle had taken the hare and was surprised to find that the bird (I assume) had eaten it there as opposed to carrying it off. It was clearly eaten by the bird, I could tell by the way the fur had been pulled out and indeed by how much was left, then when I looked up the eagle was wheeling around above me. Had he recognised me and the landy returning I wondered. I bid my farewells and left him in peace to finish his meal.

Returning to camp on the stroke of 6.30, I sat blogging for a while before crashing soon after 9pm.

My last morning I also woke up late, close to 6am and thoroughly enjoyed my last coffee there sitting under the Natal Mahogany trees that were shading my chalet, happily listening to the bush and indeed some lions talking to each other not too far away.

I was out by 7 and on my way. I did not expect to see much and had no intention of hanging around for any period of time, it was home time and rather than try to delay the moment I wanted to get on the road while all was quiet and rather have a few quality hours upon arrival.

So just a few klicks before I hit the Malelane road I was absolutely delighted to see a bull ellie at a marula tree. As I approached he went up close to the tree, raised his trunk pressing high up the tree trunk before giving the tree a good shake!….such incredible power, mesmerising every time I see it!!

The marulas rained down around him and I was sorry I had not reached for my cam corder especially, not even my camera. I stopped to watch him but he did not like it and turned towards me with a shake of his head…”Go Home” he said, flapping his ears in front of me. I thought back to the poor Elephant that had been shot at Lower Sabie and felt sad. Heeding his message I moved off saying “ciao ciao…next time old buddy”

Then, and most visitors to the park will not believe this, but I do have the pictures to prove it, I go another couple of klicks down the road and see a couple of cars parked up..what do I find?…another leopard!!…fast asleep in the lower boughs of a tree, legs either side with the tail hooked over another branch. A fantastic leopard picture, just as many people picture them and dream about seeing them. I could see the sugar cane fields in the far background and was just so chuffed to get such a great farewell sighting for the trip.

It was done, I did not even stop on the bridge over the Croc river as usual, my boots were full and I was leaving a very happy trekker.

It is going to take a week or two to go through and edit all my photos but rest assured they will be on here very soon and I shall send out the usual mail when done.

Hamba Kahle

The rest of the day was pretty chilled, much time spent in camp doing some writing, enjoying the birds. I took a late afternoon drive northwards along the tar road by the Sabie River, seems strange to think that I have been in lower Sabie for a week already and it is the first time I have driven this road…it used to be one of my absolute favourites.

I won’t say too much simply because I have not got too much good to say about it anymore I am afraid, speed track, pollution are far too strong as words for me to use.

My glass is half full though and I enjoyed, especially for some of the memories the drive evoked as I crawled along on the way back at 5kph…. Automatic gearboxes are just the very best!!….the time I spent alone with a wild dog as she ran alongside of me for around 2 kilometres late one afternoon….the early morning spent with a leopard at lubyelubye….the lion kill way back when…..

I went as far as the causeway and parked up for a while where I was able to spend some time with a fairly active pied kingfisher and get a couple of nice pics.

Then on up to the end of the track and back down the tar where I was held up for 20 minutes by 7 Rhinos on the road. One of them came along the verge like a lawn mower!!…I backed up a couple of times not wanting to be stuck between him and the other 6, one of whom was still very young and very much under the protection of mama and papa who was making it very clear with his body language that he would tolerate no nonsense from me!!

A breeding herd of ellies were crossing over a bit further down and then onto sunset dam where I sat for a short while watching the hippos play. It was my last full day at Sabie and I began to feel that my trip was coming to an end even though I still had a few nights left.

Another great sleep and I was up before 4am to enjoy my last ‘camping’ coffee under the moon which was clearly on the wane by then.

I did not want to decamp a dew covered tent etc but I was very happy there had been no rain, and finalised a decision made the night before to take an early drive for a couple of hours and then pack up when there was a bit of sun to dry everything off nicely but also before it got too hot.

I still did not get the sunrise shots I have been looking for unfortunately. It was a nice dawn but there was a thin cloudbank on the horizon…and anyway I did not find an ellie or giraffe in the right position.

I did come across a couple of very male rhinos though at the turning for Mlondozi dam, very impressive creatures and I was sorry to disturb them as I approached. I went past and carried on aways thinking they may settle again but when I returned a short while later on my way back they were still there but obviously not happy with other cars that had arrived in the meantime….not that the cars were doing anything wrong…they were just there.

Ellies, jackals, hyaenas, another hippo out of the water near the bridge…it was a lovely ‘ciao ciao’ drive back to camp as everything started appearing.

Back at Sabie I de-camped and was all packed within an hour and twenty minutes….amazing how there is always a slight difference in the way everything fits in every time I pack the cab!!

I was on my way south again just before 10.00am. A last look at the ellie carcass…which was still being picked at by the birds, crocs, hyaenas, no doubt jackals and probably several other creatures…not to mention the insects and all the other little uglies that will get to work on the inside of the bones. Eight days!! And still providing food, probably for days to come too.

I have taken a picture every day, barring the day I discovered the truth and was too upset to visit, and will upload one from each day to give an idea of the ‘process of consummation’ of the king of beasts after death in the bush. This was probably over 6 tonnes of animal, take away the bones and that must surely be more than 4 tonnes of meat, offal and skin.

Moving down the Crocodile Bridge road, west at Gomondwane and over the Vurhami, south west down to the Bume River where I crossed under the watchful eye of another breeding herd with one big matron giving me a few irritable trumpets!! A few klicks more before turning west again onto the Crocodile River track, another track I have travelled many times.

Beautiful river views and several really nice river crossings, the Biyamati in particular.

Lots of historical romanticism. The old original ford at Tengamanzi that was used by early travellers…mainly the transport riders… from 1874 till 1892, it then fell into disuse after the opening of the Delagoa railway line…probably not by some of the characters who moved on up to crooks corner though!!…but not good for Alfie Roberts who ran a trading store at the site. One cannot help but wonder what sort of scenes unfolded there 120 years ago and more! There is a ‘jock of the Bushveld’ stone marker there as well which enhances the imagination somewhat.

A few klicks further on and one comes to the site where, in 1900, the Boer army following General Ben Viljoen as they escaped the pursuing British army led by General Pole-Carew spiked all their military hardware to prevent it falling into the hands of the British. Once again the imagination goes into overdrive as one tries to conjure up images of the scenes that occurred back then. Even the ‘fabled’ stories of Kruger’s Gold comes to mind and it is impossible not to wonder whether it was buried or hidden within close proximity.

Onto and over the Mlambane where they have built a new causeway since I last crossed…and here I started getting a bit fed up. There is a very sharp bend in the track before it falls down to the causeway and they have actually erected a ‘motorway’ sign indicating the bend with those horrible big red arrows…like they have at roadworks on the highway…..I could hardly believe it…why??…this is supposed to be the bush for goodness sake…is this giving in to the people who continue to speed? It killed me to be honest and I am afraid it is a track I will avoid in future unless absolutely necessary. Thereafter I just noticed bad things…has there been flood damage there recently?…or have they widened the track and cleared the bush on either side?…I don’t know…somehow the beauty and spirit of the track has been lost. Maybe it just too busy these days. By now it was around 1pm and I suddenly started seeing hordes of weekenders coming the other way…probably on their way to Lower Sabi…,many of them probably no different from me in their love of the bush…but many of them, I have absolutely no doubt just there to be able to say that they make use of their shiny new 4×4,s. Cynical?…maybe…but their entire aura just oozes negativity with some of them clearly fed up already…no lions perhaps?…just heat and dust and a bumpy track. Good I say. Unfortunately though, they will in all probably tar the road in the next ten years…it would not surprise me unfortunately.

Over the Malelane road and into the hills and dales leading up to Berg N Dal camp (hills and dales in Afrikaans) where I checked into my chalet for a couple of nights. Nice, but I now really felt that in essence my little trek safari was over.

Joburg started calling so to speak…thats not so bad…it had been a great trip and I started to think of all the things I have got to get into when I got home and I started to feel better…I even thought of my bed for the first time and realised how much I loved it!!

I went onto the net as well where I solved a little riddle that gave me an answer I am very interested in…So as I say…it’s not so bad and life is good. I am thinking that at the end of this year I might do a 3 month trip though, November through to march…we shall see.

Then I realised that the fat lady has not in fact sung yet, I still a full day and another wake up…I would make a point of enjoying.

I did. Read on.

Personally, having thought it through, I doubt if the beast was shot outright for its meat. Whether or not it needed to be shot is entirely another matter.

I will say this though; Elephants eat marula fruit. They have been coming into the camps to eat the fruit since the camps were introduced, it is not a new phenomenon…not at all. I suspect that the vast majority of visitors who have witnessed this will say that it made their visit here very very special.

If it such a problem, or perceived threat, then for goodness sake cut the bloody marula trees that are inside the camps down.

By my reckoning, I do not know the stats and am just speculating, but I figure that Sanparks are making hundreds of millions of Rands out of the wild card/ conservation fees alone. I reckon that the more popular camps like Satara are probably making a profit of between R30 to 50 million per annum. Gawd knows how much Skukuza makes!!!

Do they think that people are spending this money to see elephants or marula trees?

How is that for some food for thought?

Therein lays a small but absolutely perfect example of how we have arrived at where we are in this world of ours that has been contrived by the madness of man and completely blinded by the insatiable greed of the corporations amidst the total insanity of consumerism. We have utterly ravaged and decimated our planet…our home. Talk about shitting on your own doorstep!!

All one hears about from these corporations and the like is growth growth growth!!!

Bah…what growth. The whole thing is nothing more than one huge self consuming monster, so big that no one can see it…we all live under it’s shadow.

Mark these words; Mother Nature is the boss and Father Time is the manager, just now the big windscreen wiper in the sky is going to do its job and come crashing down. We have and are screwing up royally!!